Can't believe I'm leaving!!

I arrived in my little hotel in Accra yesterday a tiny bit depressed. The teacher's workshop went OK--not as hands-on as I would have liked because not all the materials were available. Yes, beating myself over my head that I could have tried harder. I also didn't realize the teachers were expecting to get paid their stipend then, so they were not happy when they left. Then it was me and myself in a dingy hotel room without Ben, after several days around people. And I have to leave Ghana. I was also dead tired, not having slept the night before--that's enough to get one down without all the other factors.

So I get ready to go to dinner and realize I only had 7 cedis on me. Of course it's way after hours and even the forex bureaux were closed. So, em, a cleanse for my stomach with some Voltic.

Today was much better. Good night's sleep, had a zatar croissant that was quite good, bought my souvenirs in the morning. Then I spent most of the afternoon around Makola market purchasing stationery and materials for the science clubs, again realizing I'm not much of a haggler.

Makola market, from what I have seen, consists of a three- or five-storey building with a narrow "courtyard" and very small (3' x 5') stores spilling onto the verandah; a sprawling market with sections selling enameled and aluminium houseware in one section (the cutest nested pots displayed), plasticware in another and utensils, both wooden and metal, in a third. Then there's the cloth section, including an enclosed area where women were making shirts and dresses; the sewing accessories section; and the beauty stores--lotions and shampoo and other hair accessories, including real human hair. And of course, sandals, and shoes. At the food market, I saw many crabs, which one never finds in a restaurant, or even on the road side. (The only other glimpse of crustaceans was on the road between Accra and Cape Coast, where they sell prawns on a stick by the road side. Oh, and there was lobster on the menu at Safari Beach). I also saw the first set of glazed pottery at Makola.

Though still busy, this market is like a stroll in the park compared to Kejetia in Kumasi, maybe one quarter of the size. Kejetsia is supposedly THE largest market in west Africa. More about that market later. Suffice it to say that Ben bought a cake pan in the shape of Ghana.

One phenomenon that took me several iterations to figure out was that girls with empty basins on their heads will follow you and offer to be your porter. (I had three big bags with me towards the end). The girls' english was not good, so I couldn't quite determine what they wanted, and even asked the first girl if she had something to sell me. The last girl, when I finally was smart enough to figure it out, followed me around, but only just outside the walls of the market. I should've just offered them a few pesawas.

Since my flight is at 10:40 p.m. I decided to enjoy dinner at a restaurant, Tribes at Afia Village Hotel, by the ocean tonight. I ordered the same meal I had at Baku the first day I arrived in Accra, another serene spot. It was a beautiful ending for my trip, the ocean breeze and waves at a distance, away from the dust and people, and lovely food. The difference was that this restaurant were mostly obroni, the other locals. And yes, there were mosquitoes, but thankfully and wisely, I had my DEET! (And there was an englishwoman berating a Ghanaian researcher on his experimental method, plus the lack of impact/intervention of his study on HIV-infected women, except perhaps to reduce stigma. I should have given her a thumbs up.

Curiously, I ran into a family who were on the same tour as I at Cape Coast at the restaurant. They offered me half a glass of the most delicious red wine I've had. Smoother than anything I've had. Because, it's a $100-bottle he brought over from France.

Then at the airport, I ran into Jessie, one of the Mormon girls from Boston I met at my trip to Kakum National Park. She was short $25 for the extra departure tax, so I spotted her. I figured she'll pay me back. But here I am in the business class lounge, ignoring them! =-)

And I'm going to miss Ben doing tango at the IDDS talent show!!

Onto the plance I go!!